Behind-the-Scenes: How Kente Cloth Is Made
Fabrics are not just meant to cover the body; they're meant to tell stories. That's what Kente cloth is. It's bright, bold, beautifully patterned, and has history in those patterns. It comes from Ghana, especially from the Ashanti (or Asante) people, and has become a symbol of culture, identity, and history.
People don't just wear Kente for fashion. It's worn at graduations, weddings, festivals and other moments that matter.
In this post, I'll take you behind the scenes: how Kente cloth is made, from thread to finished fabric. You'll see the artists behind it, the skill, the rituals, and why this cloth carries so much more than just color.
Where Kente Comes From
The story often starts in Bonwire, a town in the Ashanti Region of Ghana, known as one of the first centers of Kente weaving. There's even a legend that two hunters from Bonwire, inspired by watching a spider weave its web, created the first patterns, a tale that's still shared today in local histories.
The word "Kente" comes from the Akan term kɛntɛn, meaning "basket," because early cloths looked like basket weaves. And while it is now celebrated globally, Kente was originally reserved for royalty and important ceremonies, symbolizing power, prestige, and respect.
Today, its use has spread to festive occasions and major life events, but its royal roots are still deeply honored.
Preparing the Threads & Choosing Colors
Making Kente begins with raw materials, usually cotton or silk threads. These are spun and prepared as warp and weft. Before any patterns appear, the threads are dyed in different colors, sometimes using natural dyes, sometimes modern ones.
Colors are never random. Each shade carries meaning:
Gold or yellow often reflects royalty, beauty, and wealth, as explained by the Lam Museum of Anthropology.
Green is tied to growth, renewal, and harvest.
Red may stand for blood, passion, or strong political spirit, according to Baylor University's guide to Kente colors.
Black is linked with spiritual energy, ancestors, and maturity.
Other shades like blue, white, pink, and purple also carry specific symbolism, harmony, purity, femininity, or healing, showing that every choice is intentional. Color combined with pattern becomes a message, and each weaver knows exactly what story or feeling their cloth is meant to share.
The Loom & the Weaving Process
Once the threads are ready, they're set up on a loom. Traditionally, Kente is woven on a narrow horizontal loom that uses both hands and feet. The setup looks simply, but it requires real coordination and patience. The loom allows weavers to interlace warp and weft threads into strips about four inches wide. These strips are later stitched together to form the larger cloth.
The patterns created on the loom are not random designs. They carry names and meanings. For example, a popular one is Emaa Da, which means "It has not happened before." Another, Adwinasa, translates to "all motifs are used up", a design meant to show skill and mastery. Each of these patterns has been recorded and passed down for centuries, as detailed in the Smithsonian's history of Kente.
Weaving is often done by men in the Ashanti tradition, though women also play vital roles in preparing materials and stitching cloths together. The work is usually communal, with apprentices learning by watching and practicing under skilled weavers. This makes it more than just craft, it's a form of cultural education.
Kente Beyond Ghana
Kente cloth is not only worn in Ghana. It has become a powerful global symbol of African identity, especially among the diasporas. You'll see Kente stoles at African American graduations, robes at weddings, and even high-fashion outfits on international runways. Designers across the world, from local Ghanaian artists to global brands, have embraced its patterns to blend tradition with modern style.
Still, authentic Kente from Ghana is deeply tied to its origin. In Ghana, wearing it at a royal event or festival signals respect, power, and heritage. In the diaspora, it often represents pride, resilience, and a connection to African roots.
Today, you can even find modern adaptations, Kente ties, shoes, handbags, and even home décor, proving how versatile the cloth is.
How to Spot Authentic Kente
Because Kente is so famous, many markets today sell printed imitations. These are cheaper, easy to produce, and often used for casual wear. But real Kente is handwoven and can take days or even weeks to finish. The difference shows in the weight of the fabric, the detail in the patterns, and the fact that it's made in strips and then sewn together. The National Commission on Culture Ghana explains that authentic Kente weaving is still done in places like Bonwire, Adanwomase, and Sakora Wonoo.
If you're buying, one way to tell is by looking at the back of the fabric. Real Kente looks almost identical front and back because the patterns are woven in, not printed on. Printed versions, sometimes called "Kente prints," may look flashy but don't carry the same artistry or meaning. Supporting real weavers means supporting cultural heritage.
Modern Designers Keeping Kente Alive
Kente has also stepped into modern fashion in bold ways. Designers like Christie Brown and Studio 189 have worked with African fabrics to bring them into everyday wear while still celebrating tradition. On international runways, stars like Virgil Abloh (through Off-White) and even Beyoncé in Black Is King have highlighted Kente-inspired designs.
But in Ghana, smaller artisan brands and cooperatives are just as important. Groups like Ghana Export Promotion Authority help showcase authentic Kente globally. This blend of local artisanship and global fashion keeps the cloth relevant for new generations.
Conclusion
When you wear or even display authentic Kente, you're not just showing off beautiful colors. You're carrying a piece of Ghana's heritage and a symbol that connects Africa to the world.
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