Adire – A Nigerian Staple

Last Updated: January 7, 2025By

ADIRE

Adire which in Yoruba lingua literally translates to something (like a fabric) tied with a twine or thread and dipped into a dye solution to create a resist dyeing process. Adire is a fabric design tied and dipped into indigo dye solution. The fabric is then untied after drying to reveal a unique on the fabric.
Yorubaland is situated in the south wester part of Nigeria in West Africa.

The art of adire making dates to circa 1800. Adire designs and fashions are most popular initially in Abeokuta and Oshogbo cities in southwestern Nigeria. In contemporary parlance, adire fabrics are known as "tie and dye" or "batik" fabrics. A resist dyeing process is used in creating designs and patterns in adire. Adire is said to be symbolic in Yorubaland signifying depth, stability, and wisdom in the culture. Two popular techniques used are: Adire Eleko and Adire Oniko. The Adire Eleko technique requires the use of starch to resist the dye getting into the fabric during the process of creating patterns. The candle wax method uses the same technique. Adire Oniko is the tying and dyeing process using thread or twines depending on the design required.

Blue and brown colored Adire Fabric featuring swirls and geometric patterns courtesy of shopafrothreads.com

The traditional dyes used in making adire fabrics is indigo dye. In Yoruba it is known as "Elu-Aja" (Elu leaf). Some other areas in Nigeria also use indigo leaves as dye. In Igboland on the eastern part of Nigeria it is called "Anunu", in Hausa (northern Nigeria) it known as "Talaki", around the middle-belt of Nigeria among the Tiv tribe it is known as "Saura", and the Edo in the midwestern areas call it "Ebelu".

There are several botanical names found for the indigo plant. Lonchcarpus cyanescens (artsandculture.google.com). Persicaria Tuctoria, and Indigoferia Tuctoria. Indigo leaves are used in making natural dyes for adire fabrics. The indigo plant is a deciduous tropical shrub found in West Africa. The leaves are crushed and soaked in water to extract the indigo blue dye. The fermented natural indigo dye produces a foul odor during processing. Some Adire makers now add chemicals such as caustic soda and hydrosulphide in dye mixture to hasten the process. Cotton textile is the best base fabric to use for Adire prints.

Credit: shopafrothreads.com
@adirefashionplace
Adire in Contemporary African and Global Fashion.
The unique craft and design of Adire has received accolades on the international fashion runways. The beauty of Adire on a global stage, encourages exposure of traditional African art in contemporary fashion. It showcases the African pride and position in the world of art and fashion. Adire and Kampala prints are captivating in whatever design they are made with.

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